...and then
We had had a lovely day.
It was Sunday and a sea day, so the extravaganza of a “Sunday Brunch Buffet” was held in the restaurant. When we went down for Brunch at around 1130 however, there was a long line. We don’t queue for food (!) and so chose to go upstairs and have a delicious lunch in a peaceful setting with the Captain and a few others.
Later that afternoon, we went to hear the Captain and Maggie, our Ice Pilot in discussion about their relative roles and how they’ve managed - and enjoyed - our time in Antarctica. We learned Maggie is Swiss and herself a qualified Captain with many years experience, mostly in Arctic and Antarctic conditions. She explained why we’d done the turnaround the other evening and explained about the hazards of navigating ice floes.
That evening, we had a table booked in Chartreuse, the French restaurant which we usually enjoy, but for some reason, I didn’t feel much like eating. We returned to our room, went to bed and looked forward to another sea day tomorrow, even though it was to be mostly spent packing. Our amazing trip was nearing the end, the day after tomorrow we’d be in Montevideo and the day after that, Buenos Aires and home.
However, I woke about 3am feeling awful. With a pain in my chest and stomach, I was awake enough to do a daft thing: I googled. Well, perhaps not so daft after all, for I scared myself enough to go to the Medical Centre on board as soon as it opened at 8am the following morning: Monday.
There, after a lengthy consultation with Doctor Dinah, I was asked to stay a while for a few tests. I was immediately given a handful of medication and introduced to Vonn and Haydee, the two Philippino nurses. Vonn looked at me and checked if I had insurance, “because this will be expensive”, he said.
Haydee sat with me whilst Dr Dinah called The Cleveland Hospital for advice about her findings. She had diagnosed atrial fibrillation caused by an infection of some kind. The ECG results had concerned her and she returned to say that I would remain in the Medical Centre until the morning, when arrangements had been made for me to see a cardiologist in Montevideo.
She handed me a Room Service menu and said that I should eat something. Though I didn’t really feel like it, I ordered a portion of gravlax. Later that evening, at dinner time, they brought me a caesar salad - how well I was cared for. During the day, friends visited and sat chatting for a while - so kind and such a wonderful distraction.
I don’t think I slept much that night, for I recall Haydee sitting by my side and when she took a break, Vonn came to keep me company. Those two - and Dr Dinah - were remarkable, never leaving me alone and being the sweetest, caring team imaginable. When I asked what time their shift finished, they replied that they would stay with me all night, because they could always sleep tomorrow. Later, I realised, they must have done a straight 24 hours - with, I hope, the occasional nap now and again.
Meanwhile, my Hero was packing our bags, not really knowing if we’d return to the ship or not. How to pack for such uncertainty, I have no idea.
As 8am he arrived and joined me as I was taken ashore in a wheelchair to a waiting ambulance. Oh heck. I think it was around now that things were beginning to become alarming.
Whilst I don’t want to leave this as a cliffhanger, it’s a long story, so I will break it up a little. Next chapter in the next post, then.


