A rainy day in Ribe
Before we set off from home, my Hero had checked the weather forecast for Denmark, pulling a face as he noted the wet outlook for the next fourteen days. “Better take wet weather gear then” was the decision.
So when I woke to a flash of lightning and the loudest clap of thunder this morning, it wasn't that much of a surprise. We'd had rain on and off all day yesterday and were expecting it, really.
Though of course, we'd rather it otherwise.
We stepped out of the hotel after breakfast, having waited untl gone 10am for things to “get going”. I'm not really sure that happened, however, for even though it was 10.30am or so on this Friday morning, it was all pretty quiet. Perhaps the coach parties arrive in this honeypot of a town much later in the day? We'd better make on whilst it's quiet then!
Ribe is an old town and has many picturesque buildings with narrow streets in between them. There's not much traffic - mostly delivery vehicles - and it reminds us both rather of Rothenburg o.d. Tauber in Germany. In fact, we noted a few similarities, for example, both towns offer a late “Nightwatchman Walk”, something we found huge fun when we were in Rothenburg. Ribe is, however, much smaller and as a result, easier to find our way around.
We had spotted one pretty shop window last evening on our way back from our delicious supper at the Sælhunden. The Danish aesthetic appeals to us both and when we felt a drop or two of rain, we needed no further temptation to step inside.
When we stepped outside to find it raining seriously, we simply put up our umbrellas and carried on up the street. It was going to be no good being squeamish about the rain today! As we reached the corner with the ice cream shop (where we'd enjoyed dessert last evening) we looked down the waterway to the white house on the left: that's the Sælhunden restaurant.
The roar of crashing water behind us made us realise we were actually standing on a bridge. One aspect of Ribe that I have not yet grasped is the geography of the place. There seems to be water everywhere!
And on a rainy morning, there's nothing better to lift the spirits than a beautifully painted entrance like this one.
Stepping back , I realised that it wasn't only a spectacularly painted entrance, either, but the whole building was really attractive. Walking with an umbrella and/or a hood up really does make for a blinkered view! How could I have missed that?!
It wasn't open yet, but I earmarked it as a potential coffee stop on the way back.
For now, we continued up the street, peering down small alleyways and wondering what it's like to live here.
A familiar sound here too, this time a huge water wheel turning steadily with the increased flow this morning. The gentleman in a shop we popped into said how dry this Summer had been and how very much needed all this water was. Just the same as at home.
Well, if more water was needed, then it came right on cue. No sooner had we stepped outside again than it was pouring.
We sheltered in the doorway of a shop selling outdoor clothes - mainly Barbour! - and waited for the rain to abate a little.
Once we felt it safe to step out again without getting drowned, we continued to the end of the street before turning around and retracing our steps.
We were soon back at the colourful coffee shop which was now open for business and where we took a break.
As we did, we spotted a coffee machine on the shelf; a cute little kitchen accessory to add to Arthur's collection of wooden breakfast-making toys. This one wasn't for sale of course, but my FB photo prompted a couple of suggestions of UK sources for such things. Within an hour or so of returning to the hotel later, the order was placed!
We smiled as we returned towards the cathedral square, passing this mannequin figure outside the clothes store, which exhibited more life and energy than anyone else we've seen today! Almost everyone is huddled under umbrellas, sheltering in doorways or sitting in a coffee shop!
Just as we were nearing “home” (our hotel is the red brick building across the street) the heavens opened again. We waited some time for it to ease before quickly crossing over and inside. A half hour later, all was calmer and we thought we could go over to the cathedral and spend an hour or more looking around with no fear of getting soaked (again)
What better way to spend a peaceful time?
It's a beautiful interior. Simple and solidly constructed in a plain style with minimal flourishes.
Where there is colour, it's used boldly and with bright, contemporary style and for a short while, the little bit of sunshine that appeared through that stained glass was very much enjoyed. Unsurprisingly, this redecoration of the apse by the Danish artist Carl-Henning Pedersen created was not universally admired when it was completed in the 1980s but I thought it magnificent.
As was the way in which the remains of one of just two wall paintings was highlighted.
I wandered around, pleased to spot the traditional ship hanging above one of the side aisles.
Then later, before leaving, I spotted a set of four beautifully embroidered vestments in glass cases adjacent to the altar. I took photographs of each of them, but on review, they are so poor because of reflections and a lack of detail that they're unusable. Never mind, the pictures are in my head and whilst I was in that part of the cathedral, I was able to get a closer look at the colourful mosaics behind the altar too.
