Questioning Jean-Paul Sartre
Now we are home, I’m trying to catch up on one or two details I didn’t have the time to include during our trip. The first one concerns the subject of Jean-Paul Sartre’s observation, “le plus joli village d'Espagne”, Santillana del Mar which we visited after our successful morning at the Emigration Museum.
Before we left, we did some research and identified places that interested and intrigued us, adding spots to a map. That yellow spot right out there to the east is Santillana, over the border into Cantabria and almost a suburb of Santander. Yes, further than we’d normally go, but we’d just enjoyed a lovely morning at the next place along the coast to the west, Colombres, where the Emigrant Museum is situated, and thought we’d just go for it. After all, how could we miss the “prettiest village in Spain” ?
It is, of course, on the Camino; the Camino del Norte to be precise, but we saw pilgrims almost everywhere we went as there’s so many alternative routes along the way.
As we turned into the small square just beyond the crossroads, Santillana did appear to be a pretty place and this afternoon, we were fortunate to find it fairly uncrowded. We’d looked at our map and agreed, there appeared to be a “down street” and an “up street” with a cross street and the Romanesque Colegiata at the end. Easy peasy then.
I’m not sure what the hidalgos would think of the offerings on sale today.
Cobbles don’t make for the easiest walking and both of us needed to remind ourselves to look up from time to time, because there were attractive buildings on both sides of the street.
It didn’t take us long to catch up with a group ahead of us, a couple of whom were more concerned with their phones than looking where they were going. I really wanted to suggest to one of them in particular that she might find it easier to simply step aside and complete her conversation before moving on. But of course, I stayed quiet and just muttered to myself!
The answer at such times is for me to stop and refocus…on a building maybe. Take a closer look and let the others move on (out of my way) whilst I quietly regain a little patience! “Productos Epicos” appear to be the key souvenir from these parts; we’d noticed such things in Cangas de Onis previously. Here in Santillana were more of the same kind of foodie souvenir stores selling local products packed in a way that makes them suitable for travel.
Our lingering along the way paid off, for the group had now settled themselves in the seating outside a cafe opposite this water trough and what appeared to be an animal shelter of some kind. My main observation was the red pelargoniums, flowering so early in the year (when it’s way too early to put them outdoors at home yet).
We had caught sight of the Colegiata just a little way in front of us too, so made our way along for a closer look. Not too close for me though - I’d already spied pigeons flying in and out for the cloister there, so was happy to keep my distance!
Leaving the group behind enjoying their refreshment, we found the way back up to be more enjoyable. The small cottages and somewhat grander buildings were very attractive, the terracotta roofs adding to the character of the place.
It’s the details such as the roofs and the oriel windows that distinguish the stone cottages from those at home in the Cotswolds. Put on a stone roof, take away the wooden window and this cottage would not look at all out of place in our own village.
We were soon back to where we’d begun, in the main square.
Here, we came across the Parador , looking lovely on this quiet afternoon.
Though right opposite was another souvenir shop, which offered a clue to how fortunate we were to be able to visit out of season.
I think Jean-Paul Sartre correctly identified Santillana del Mar as a pretty village even if I question his use of the superlative. But maybe he was also partly responsible for what was surely an alien concept at that time: Honeypot.
