Sunday in Oviedo
Sunday is often a tricky day to plan, especially in this part of Europe where everything generally remains closed for the whole day. We’d planned a quiet, restful kind of day anyway and thought that we’d spend our time exploring the old city and just being here. So rather than walk along the street from the hotel this morning, we took the route through the park.
We could hear something going on somewhere nearby.
The main street was filled with all the paraphernalia associated with a cycle race and although those racing as we got there were youngsters, I understand there was a larger, more important event today too - possibly the conclusion of the Tour Asturias.
One thing on our mind today was food. We didn’t really want it to be the focus of our day but nevertheless, did not want to get caught out as we had done last evening so thought we should simply think ahead. Passing by a likely location for a bite to eat later, I made enquiries about reserving a table. The reaction was clear - “No way” - It turned out that today is Mothers Day in Spain and every restaurant we asked gave the same reply. Completely booked.
So we continued on into the old city and into this rather pretty square lined with attractive buildings. Plaza Mayor was bustling with people and the congregation of San Isidoro were just leaving, adding to the activity.
This 17th century church was founded by the Jesuits and was intended to have a second tower, but for some reason that was never completed, giving it a distinctive appearance. To the side of the church is the market, housed in the green glazed structure and it was there we headed next.
It being Sunday, the market hall was closed, but the surrounding streets were filled with stalls doing a brisk trade in what looked to be mostly clothing. Having no need of underwear or socks, we carried on through and out the other side!
We soon realised that we were on the way to completing a full circle, as we could see the Plaza Mayor just ahead of us, but catching sight of this window of the sombrerería , we were happy to stop and admire the display. I have been admiring so many shop windows here, filled with the most stylish accessories and this was no exception.
Quite by chance, our arrival back into the square coincided with the sound of a procession led by drums and gaita and a colourful parade of youngsters came into the square and arranged themselves to begin a performance.
With colourful ribbons attached to their tambourines, they sang and danced, attracting quite an audience.
We watched a while before moving on towards the cathedral square.
On the way, we passed that unmistakeable symbol on the ground, too.
Because, in common with so many other towns and cities in this part of Spain, it seems Oviedo is a starting point for the Camino.
Oviedo’s cathedral is dedicated to San Salvador and being Sunday, we’d have had to have timed our arrival very carefully indeed to avoid a service. But the Plaza Alfonso II was lined with one or two cafes and we were ready for a break, so we settled ourselves down with a ringside seat and did as we do…
There was, to quote from one of Edward’s favourite storybooks, “a little bracing dampness in the air”, i.e. it felt like rain. We had a table under a decent umbrella though, so were quite comfortable sitting watching people, scribbling a few notes in my book and thinking about plans for the next couple of days. We had asked the young woman who brought our drinks about a table indoors, but the answer was just as expected “fully booked”. However, if we wanted to order food for this outdoor table, that would be fine. We thought about it and around 2.30pm decided that given the circumstances, two bowls of the Asturian speciality of fabada would be perfect.
We couldn’t have chosen better! Not only that, but having seen the rest of the menu, we asked if there was a table tomorrow night for supper? Well yes there was - so thankfully, we are sorted for then as well. Tomorrow is another holiday here and we feared many places could be closed.
Though the rain had held off, everyone was eating lunch or enjoying their siesta and the plaza was deserted. Rather than order dessert here, I had an idea up my sleeve!
We have passed the Rialto pastry shop several times and on every one of them, the queue has been out of the door. What could be better than a delicious pastry to take back to the hotel and enjoy with a cup of tea? I joined the queue, I took my numbered ticket and waited for 830 to be called.
In the meantime I made my shopping list with my camera, from the shop window.
My Hero had already seen those “almendrados” and requested those, but once inside I’d never remember the name, so I took a photo to show the assistant. “Dos, por favor”
Everyone in the queue was buying Muscovitas, which looked to be somewhat similar to florentines. We needed to try those, so a small box of dark and milk please.
Finally, seeing these bite sized morsels, I just had to get some to try. “Seis, por favor”
Of course, my Hero thought I’d lost the plot when I returned with a carrier bag (for two almond macaroons?!) but we have just sampled the Princesitas and I think - know - we will not pass that shop again without joining the queue!
